Excerpt
The factor that most determines when to go surfing is the tide. Wave-shape and the whole pattern of the surf changes with the tide, more or less hour to hour. The wind and swell remain constant for hours, even days. You have to be sensitive to all these factors to get to know a surf break, and each break is different, since the underwater topography of one place is unlike any other. At beach breaks, even the sandbanks change shape from week to week. So, it takes commitment to get good waves. Though, sometimes, you just luck on, like this morning. I'm tempted to get out there. It'll be warmer in the water. There's a good wave now. To think, I've got it to myself. I'll get a few on the left and paddle across to the right. It's longer.
Surfboards, leg-ropes and wetsuits have to be considered long in advance - not only suiting the surfer, but also various surf conditions. Untold factors go into surfboard design. I have two boards for different sized surf. The other would be better for this morning. It's bigger. But, I daren't go get it, else the swell drop or the wind change direction. Like anything, when an opportunity presents itself, you've kind of got to take it, however prepared you might be. The left is good and hollow. I'll see how it goes.
I like to keep my boards in good repair. Dings are inevitable at these rocky breaks. A cracked fin can easily snap off. A ding on the rail might be where the board snaps in half, or else the exposed fibreglass will put a cut in your leg-rope, and if that breaks, the board will end up getting bounced around on the rocks until you can find your own way in to retrieve it. But then, hectic situations are half the fun.
Then there's getting ready to head out. Putting on a wetsuit and waxing up has a kind of ritual feel about it - a few moments spent mentally preparing for engagement. When it's big, it feels like you're preparing for battle, your wetsuit like a suit of armour, your board a shield. I normally wear booties and a helmet at reef breaks - added protection in battle. But, I'll have to do without, this morning. I hadn't needed them at the beach yesterday. I feel kind of naked, without them.
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