West of Jesus: Surfing, Science, And the Origin of Belief
A combination of narrative, memoir and reportage formulated as a quest to track down the origin of a mythic story about "some guy who could control the weather and conduct the waves with some kind of baton made from human bone". The narrator describes surfing's appeal by weaving together a range of topics such as surfing history, religion, anthropology, philosophy, psychology and neuroscience.
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