Saturday, July 15, 2006

James Cook

"I could not help concluding this man had the most supreme pleasure while he was driven so fast and so smoothly by the sea."

Mark Cunningham

“Surfing wasn't about money back then. Surfers always lived cheaply and scraped by.”

Jeff Clark

“It's a culmination of your life of surfing when you turn and paddle in at Mavericks.”

Kelly Slater

“It's all about where your mind's at.”

Mark Twain

"None but natives ever master the art of surf-bathing thoroughly."

"In one place we came upon a large company of naked natives, of both sexes and all ages, amusing themselves with the national pastime of surf-bathing. Each heathen would paddle three or four hundred yards out to sea (taking a short board with him), then face the shore and wait for a particularly prodigious billow to come along; at the right moment he would fling his board upon its foamy crest and himself upon the board, and here he would come whizzing by like a bombshell!"

Sir John Templeton

"The idea that an individual can find God is terribly self-centered. It is like a wave thinking it can find the sea."

Paul Walker

"Surfing soothes me, it's always been a kind of Zen experience for me. The ocean is so magnificent, peaceful, and awesome. The rest of the world disappears for me when I'm on a wave."

Duke Kahanamoku

"Out of the water, I am nothing."

"How would you like to stand like a God before the crest of a monster billow, always rushing to the bottom of a hill and never reaching its base, and to come rushing in for a half mile at express speed, in graceful attitude, until you reach the beach and step easily from the wave?"

Kary Mullis

"Sometimes in the morning, when it's a good surf, I go out there, and I don't feel like it's a bad world."

Lawrence Hargrave

"If you direct your attention to the position of a bird with regard to the wave surface, it will speedily be noticed to be nearly always on the rising side or face of the wave and moving apparently at right angles to the wave's course, but really diagonal to it."

Emo Philips

"I tried body surfing once, but how often do you find a corpse?"

Jimi Hendrix

"You will never hear surf music again".

The Joker

"Then, after I've gotten rid of Batman and Robin for good, I will rule the waves. Me, the Joker, king of the surf and all the surfers. Then, Gotham City! Later, the world!"

Davis Bunn

“There is that desire to go surf the waves by yourself, just you and nature and I will never do it again, never.”

Florence Nightingale

"Give us back our suffering, we cry to Heaven in our hearts— suffering rather than indifferentism; for out of nothing comes nothing. But out of suffering may come the cure. Better have pain than paralysis! A hundred struggle and drown in the breakers. One discovers the new world. But rather, ten times rather, die in the surf, heralding the way to that new world, than stand idly on the shore!"