James Cook
"I could not help concluding this man had the most supreme pleasure while he was driven so fast and so smoothly by the sea."
"If I say it's safe to surf this beach Captain, then it's safe to surf this beach. I mean I'm not afraid to surf this place. I'll surf this whole fucking place!" Kilgore, Apocalypse Now.
"I could not help concluding this man had the most supreme pleasure while he was driven so fast and so smoothly by the sea."
"None but natives ever master the art of surf-bathing thoroughly."
"The idea that an individual can find God is terribly self-centered. It is like a wave thinking it can find the sea."
"Surfing soothes me, it's always been a kind of Zen experience for me. The ocean is so magnificent, peaceful, and awesome. The rest of the world disappears for me when I'm on a wave."
"Out of the water, I am nothing."
"Sometimes in the morning, when it's a good surf, I go out there, and I don't feel like it's a bad world."
"If you direct your attention to the position of a bird with regard to the wave surface, it will speedily be noticed to be nearly always on the rising side or face of the wave and moving apparently at right angles to the wave's course, but really diagonal to it."
"Then, after I've gotten rid of Batman and Robin for good, I will rule the waves. Me, the Joker, king of the surf and all the surfers. Then, Gotham City! Later, the world!"
“There is that desire to go surf the waves by yourself, just you and nature and I will never do it again, never.”
"Give us back our suffering, we cry to Heaven in our hearts— suffering rather than indifferentism; for out of nothing comes nothing. But out of suffering may come the cure. Better have pain than paralysis! A hundred struggle and drown in the breakers. One discovers the new world. But rather, ten times rather, die in the surf, heralding the way to that new world, than stand idly on the shore!"